In the heart of the marshes of the Arvert Peninsula, Mornac-sur-Seudre reveals itself to those who are curious enough to visit. A small village with two faces: oyster farming by tradition and craftsmanship by passion. Quite simply, one of the " Most Beautiful Villages of France® ».
A craft village overlooking the marshes
Mornac-sur-Seudre is a “Village of Stones & Water” as promised by the Charente-Maritime label. It is not easy to guess whether it is from the Royan – Rochefort road axis or Saujon - Tremblade. You must therefore look for one of the small roads through the marshes that will lead you there. Mornac is a village where you must take your time to first soak up its atmosphere and its wisdom gained over the centuries.
We visit it on foot to savor every detail. It is also a place conducive to exchanges whether with the generous inhabitants in anecdotes, the craftsmen showing their know-how, which earned it the label “City and Crafts”, or even other visitors wishing to share their favorites. Here, everything is on a human scale.
We discover the village by the square of the hallsThe wooden-framed shelter supported by stone pillars is ideal for meeting people. People can take a break in the shade while waiting for those looking for that rare gem in the shops.
The terraced houses replace the old fortifications that protected the village in the Middle Ages. Unless you know the more confidential access points, you enter through the market halls and exit through the port, following the main street. However, don't hesitate to wander through the small streets and alleys of the old village. Don't be fooled by the village's small size; you can get lost there! This winding part of Mornac is called the "Arab quarter." This nickname is due to the many narrow, winding streets that the village's sailors compared to the medinas discovered in North Africa during their sea expeditions.
St. Peter's Church
It dominates the village from its fortified bell tower. Original in many ways, the Romanesque building houses a holy water font made of a real shell. From the side, you reach the small, well-hidden apse garden. Stone sarcophagi (Merovingian or Carolingian depending on the source) bear witness to the archaeological excavations that the church underwent. There are many stories in Mornac, but that of the fire of August 2, 1943, marked the identity of the village. Indeed, the bell tower did not always have this appearance. It had the more traditional shape of a spire until lightning struck it. Many young students came to Mornac-sur-Seudre to participate in the clearing and the excavations that followed. Seduced by the local atmosphere, many stayed and opened the first craft workshops in the village, some of which are still present, such as pottery and leather.
From the halls to the port, the houses of the former fishermen now host painters' galleries, craft workshops, small shops (clothing, jewellery, decorative objects, souvenirs, creations, local products, delicacies, etc.). A visit to the village can quickly turn into a shopping day!
An oyster port in the middle of the clear
Leaving the town by harbour. opens onto wide open spaces. We are finally facing the Seudre marsh. The gaze stretches as far as the eye can see (isn't that the bell tower of Marennes that we see in the distance?). The sea air tickles the nostrils. We sit down on one of the terraces of the Restaurants in Mornac-sur-Seudre to enjoy this moment of calm. You just hear the water being chased from the tide mill. A basic structure in wooden trunks attracts attention: it is the reconstruction of a medieval fire.
The port comes alive with the arrival of the children of the village. The "galop ch'naux" have all learned to swim here. THE sailboat “La Fleche” is in port. This former fishing cutter and "Boat of Heritage Interest" is joined during the day of “Sails of Mornac”, during the high tides of August, by other old rigs on the Atlantic seaboard.
The port is lined with traditional and typical cabins. Each one sports a different color. There is something for everyone. The small road of the Seudre allows you to follow them to the foot of the estuary. You then arrive, at the very end, at the "ach'neau ghoul"We feel alone in the world. Everything is flat, horizontal. It's finally time to say it: the name Mornac means "calm waters."
Activities in Mornac-sur-seudre to discover the marsh and the village
There is more than one way to tame this natural environment shaped by the hand of man. Cruise departures are made according to the tide. Sometimes, there is simply no water in the port. But when the stars allow it, you can set off for a sea trip a complete change of scenery. 5 minutes after boarding and you finally feel like you're somewhere else. By kayak, we are closer to nature. Old fashioned stop saunier's hut : we watch the flight of the heron, we taste the glasswort...
But not everyone has sea legs. From the Chemin de la Corderie, we take the marked Détours® loops, between April and October, on the dikes of the pedestrian walkways. Why not take advantage of the commented tours of the village offered during the season? Mornac and its marshes can also be visited by bike via the shared paths of the Paths of the Seudre. If the walk seems too long, you can combine the bike ride with the Seagull Train. It's finally the right speed to quietly appreciate the landscapes of the Seudre. Mornac-sur-Seudre is a stopover station on the tourist train. If the view of the salt marsh during the journey has piqued our curiosity, we can get off to attend the guided tour. We then learn all about the ancestral techniques used to harvest salt.
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